Architectural landmarks of the colonial era

Grand mansions with ornate designs that are a living testament to the Raj era define much of Kolkata’s built heritage.

The Indo-Saracenic Victoria Memorial, the Art Nouveau Esplanade Mansions, the Neo-Baroque Metropolitan Building, the neoclassical Marble Palace and the Greco-Roman Writers’ Buildings of Dalhousie Square all co-exist to add diversity to the city’s architectural splendour.

While an exhaustive catalogue is impossible in this limited space, here are some structures that merit special attention.

Address: 32 Hare St, Lal Dighi, BBD Bagh

Erected in 1896 at the junction of BBD Bagh (South) and Red Cross Place, the Standard Life Assurance Building stands as a striking relic of late-Victorian imagination. The deep red-brick structure with pale stone dressings stands out for its monumental central archway and layered balconies. Designed by Frederick W. Stevens, the architect of Victoria Terminus, the building once housed the Calcutta office of the Edinburgh-headquartered Standard Life Assurance Company. The structure was recently restored and allows restricted public access.

Address: 12 Strand Rd, BBD Bagh

The neoclassical landmark named after Sir Charles Theophilus Metcalfe, noted for his advocacy of a free press, was built between 1840 and 1844 to house the Calcutta Public Library (founded in 1836). The building is encircled by a commanding colonnade with 30 colossal Corinthian columns. The majestic structure draws inspiration from the temples of ancient Greece. Metcalfe Hall is home to I Am Calcutta or Ami Kolkata — a city-centric museum.

Address: At the crossing of Marx Engels Beethi and Esplanade East, opposite Raj Bhavan’s Eastern Gate

Esplanade Mansions was built in the year 1910 at the behest of David Elias Ezra, a Jewish merchant who was commissioner of the Calcutta Municipality in 1876. The building was conceived as a private residence for the Ezra family. Its unique Art Nouveau architecture (a highly ornamental style inspired by natural forms) is marked by a corner tower and cupola, circular balconies and arched windows. The site itself once accommodated Scott Thompson’s shop alongside two adjoining houses before Martin & Co. was entrusted with the task of construction. During the Second World War, the building served as the American Library. It is now owned by the Life Insurance Corporation of India. 

Address: 140 SN Banerjee Road, Dharmatala

Built in 1905 as Whiteaway Laidlaw, one of India’s earliest department stores, the building was later renamed after passing to Metropolitan Life Insurance and was nationalised in 1956 under the Life Insurance Act. Restored by LIC, the structure is spacious and readily recognised by its commanding corner towers. The façade boasts plain columns crowned with Corinthian capitals, lending it an air of dignified grandeur. The building is frequently referenced in literature, notably Pather Kanta by Saradindu Bandyopadhyay.

Address: 46 Muktaram Babu Street, Opposite Ram Mandir on Jatindra Mohan Sarani, Jorasanko

Marble Palace was erected in the year 1835 by Raja Rajendra Mullick, a prosperous Bengali merchant known for his love for art. The house built in the neoclassical style has elaborate stucco work on its exterior walls, columns and long corridors on each floor. The courtyard has a thakur dalan. The grounds comprise lawns, a rock garden, a lake, and even a mini zoo. Descendants of Raja Rajendra Mullick continue to stay in the palace that houses rare artworks by European artists.

Marble Palace is open to visitors from 10am to 4pm (closed on Mondays and Thursdays).

Address: 286, Rabindra Sarani

Not to be confused with the more illustrious Jorasanko Thakur bari, the birthplace of Rabindranath Tagore. The Rajbari was founded by Ramchandra Roy, the eldest son of Raja Sukhomoy Roy of Posta. Raja Sukhomoy Roy’s lineage can be traced to Naku Dhar, the eminent banker who is said to have advanced a huge sum to Lord Robert Clive during the Battle of Plassey. This ochre-red mansion features a colonnaded façade, arched ground floor, wrought-iron balconies and a spacious courtyard with a five-arched thakur dalan. The residential property permits quiet visitation and was prominently featured in Aparna Sen’s film Goynar Baksho.

Address: 47 Pathuriaghata Street

Born in the year 1829 at his ancestral home of 46 Pathuriaghata Street, Khelat Chandra Ghosh grew to embody a rare union of intellect, enterprise and piety. He earned admiration not only for his success in commerce, but for spirituality and generosity as well. His grandfather, Ramlochan Ghosh, served as a clerk under Warren Hastings. Khelat Chandra Ghosh later built his own mansion with huge corridors, spread out courtyards and a massive thakurdalan. Durga Puja has been held on these premises since 1885. The colossal mansion is now looked after by three trusts. Unlike most of the traditional houses of Kolkata, the present owners of Khelat Bhawan have come up with adaptive reuse of the building, hosting cultural events, wedding ceremonies, photography and film shoots.