Kolkata’s kochuri trail — A culinary pilgrimage

Breakfast in Bengal is almost always synonymous with luchi — the perfectly puffed white or golden balls lighting up even the gloomiest of mornings. But it also has a close cousin and rival in the kochuri — deep-fried flat breads stuffed with aromatic hing (asafoetida) or spiced dal or peas. 

What makes kochuri a true winner is its versatility, as comfortable on a lunch or evening snack platter as on the morning table. Not surprising then that shops selling these remain busy all day, all year round. 

Let’s go on a quick tour of Kolkata’s hottest kochuri haunts, from north to south, where kochuri is not a food item but a tradition. 

One of the best places to buy yourself a plate of mouthwatering hing kochuri with chholar dal on the side is while on a visit to Dakshineswar Temple. The rustic warmth of the small shops adjacent to the temple has been replaced by a swanky food plaza but the taste remains the same. 

Located at the crossing of APC Road and Shyambazar in north Kolkata is another such shop — Adi Haridas Modak. The more than 200-year-old address serves kochuri and khoshawala alur torkari (potato cooked with skin in a slurry-like gravy) in banana leaves. The price: Rs 12 a piece. To taste this delicious treat, drop in between 8am and 12pm. 

When heading towards College Street, the popular Putiram Sweets is a must-visit. (Fun fact: Even Anushka Sharma has given her thumbs up to the legendary shop.) Here, kochuri is served with chholar dal or alur torkari all day long. A plate of four kochuris is priced at Rs 32. Don’t forget to try the piping hot nolen gurer rosogolla (rosogolla with jaggery) for a sweet ending.  

Moving towards Dharamtala, stop by at Mohan Bhandar — the shop on SN Banerjee where Amitabh Bachchan is known to have savoured kochuris during the shooting of Piku. Kochuri is sold here from 8am to 10pm with alur torkari, chutney and pickled chillies. Price point: Rs 50 for a plate of four kochuris. The hot lyangcha (long, deep-fried sweet soaked in sugar syrup) and tea are a must-try to complete your meal.

No kochuri trail in Kolkata can be complete without stopping by Burrabazar. The crisp and flaky khasta kochuri at Badri ki Kachori on Sree Hariram Goenka Street, served with a side of sabzi generously sprinkled with jhuri bhaja or sev, is heaven served on your plate at Rs 15 a piece. The shop opens early in the morning and runs all day.

For another variation, try the lipsmacking Club Kachori served with sabzi at Kanhaiya Kachori on Rabindra Sarani in Burrabazar. The shop opens at 7am and downs shutters at 11.30pm. Some piping hot jalebis fried in pure desi ghee offset the perfect dessert option. The Club Kachoris are priced at Rs 10 per piece and jalebi Rs 15 per piece.

South Kolkata, too, has its own share of kochuri classics. Adi Sree Hari Mistanna Bhandar in the Kalighat area has a delightfully sweet chholar dal on offer with the kochuri. You can also opt for alur torkari or the fancier Kashmiri Alur Dom instead. The shop opens every morning at 6am sharp and serves till 10pm. Kochuris are priced at Rs 12 a piece.

Sarat Bose Road is royalty when it comes to kochuri. The freshly fried piping hot hing kachori and torkari at both Maharaj Snacks and Maharani Tea & Tiffin are too good to resist. The latter also sells Khasta Kachori — a tasty treat indeed. Maharaj is open from 7am to 12.30pm and from 4pm to 9pm. Maharani opens at 6am and operates till 1pm and then again from 3.30pm to 9.30pm. Both shops have their loyal patrons.

Another gem on Sarat Bose Road (near Maddock Square) is Mrityunjoy Ghosh and Sons. This 100-year-old shop makes a delectable Koraishutir Kochuri with alur torkari which is reasonably priced at Rs 10 a piece. The Phulkopir Singara and Gurer Rosomundir Payesh here are delicious as well. 

So, what are you waiting for? Now is the perfect time to work your way through this list whether for breakfast, lunch or an evening snack.